One of the things a surfer quickly learns--in and out of the ocean--is when to ride things out, and when to bail. Local Stand Up Paddleboarder Tamara Lentz demonstrates (by way of diving off of her too-thick-to-duckdive board while a lip looms above her) that when the going gets tough, sometimes the tough just have to get the hell out of the way of the ocean.
A visual Redondo "B-wall" surf-check elicited an all-too-common mental response from myself: "good from afar, but far from good," (as my surf buddy Kim Magin would say.)
An aquatic optical illusion presents itself down-the-beach. It's a peeling barrel--right? If you're dubious, your skepticism serves you well.
Another momentary mirage--they can be tempting, but are ultimately likely be trying.
The verdict? The surf wasn't worthwhile today. But that's the magical thing about the ocean: it can be depressingly flat one day, and overhead the following day. Let's hope that when I check it again, it's overhead (and that the water quality has improved).
Until next time...
--FIN--
