BOMBS OVER HERMOSA BEACH

The Redondo Beach Breakwall was bombing this AM--and the word was out.  Huge, A-frame wedges fanned by offshore winds ran from near the wall to the shorepound.  One housing was in the water and at least 5 rigs (including myself) were on the sand, with random photographers wandering in and out of the great show's sandy sidelines.  The amazing show was full of high octane surfing and some very puzzling drop-ins.  I know they run a tight ship in that lineup, so if you don't know how good it has been, make sure you keep that in mind if you happen to paddle out.

Photos were submitted to an online outlet, if nothing runs I'll post some on here.  Remember: respect the lineup, there were quite a few transgressions against good etiquette out there today (and this was all within the brief 30-45 minutes I managed to fit in to today's busy schedule), and that's something I never endorse.  There's a strict pecking order out there, so be prepared to take scraps.  If the surf continues like this, though, sloppy seconds aren't sounding too bad at the moment.

One Hermosa Beach Afternoon...

...turned into a beautfiully-lit evening, quickly.  Click on photos to enlarge.

Pigskin tossing...

...tandem surfing...

...brilliant sundown...

...birds cruise freely...

...and the evening has only begun.

FIN

MERRY CHRISTMAS SESH @ THE PIER!

SSide was firing today this fine Christmas morning--a well deserved present for the standups out there.

All images Copyright © 2009 Marcus Bockman.  Please email me for rates if you would like to purchase a photo.

And he CRACKS one off the top...

 ...while a fellow surfer puts on the brakes...

...same guy, same idea, different angle...

...a sole soul soulfully cruising by...

...a shortboarder smacks the lip, close enough for comfort, far enough away for safety...

...same guy, with the fiberglass board a little TOO close for comfort!

What a day: fine conditions and great surfing in the morning was

followed by a fun, spontaneous Christmas beach party.

It was the momentary homecoming for now-Canuck bodyboarder

Zack, with some MB boogie and fiberglass heads present and a stock of appetizers courtesy of Tim Tindall.

Thanks for going back to Cali for the holidays, Zack, thanks to Tindall for the refreshments, to everyone

who chipped in on the pizza: much appreciation, and for Pete: "GO GLOCKIE!"

TO ALL:

MERRY CHRISTMAS, AND MAY GOD BLESS YOU IN THIS UPCOMING NEW YEAR!

FIN.

"I've been watching this wave for 15 years, bro..."

...Tim Tindall said to me.  The ocean was angry.  A furious mess of windswell angrily raked over rocks, sucked-up over boils and collapsed on near-dry reef right below us.  One spot we had checked earlier on The Hill looked to be breaking 20 feet on the faces, far out to sea.  Who knew how big it actually was--but I would wager if you stacked some yardsticks on top of one another lengthwise, it would take about 6 to measure up to the freak sets.

But to the south was truly a sight to behold.

Two waves would come together at once, exploding in a massive collision of whitewater, spray, and deadly force.  Think of The Newport Wedge and a North Orange County "secret" wedge combined, breaking over exposed reef heads and shards of rocks.  Initially, one would see two lines on a coverging path.  Running at a 45 degree angle while raking the bottom, they suddenly reared up over the reef, both standing a good 12 feet tall.

Finally, in a suicidal finale, the waves would rush towards each other, creating a huge Wedge-shaped,  God-forsaken, and surfer/bodyboarder-less wave that would explode upward, likely hurling spray in the excess of 25 feet.

Psycho.

"I've never seen anyone surf this wave," Tindall said to me.  I nodded solemnly, and said, "No thanks."

"I'd have to bring a crazy Aussie-charger out here with me, huh?" Tindall said.

To this I replied, "Yeah--if they wanted it."

It was likely the most dangerous-looking wave I'd ever seen.

Below are photos from a protected beachbreak on the same day.  No open ocean fury here--fun, crisp offshore lines on one hell of an onshore day were what made this break make me smile.

A really cool, red-headed grom with the Slater-esque wings spread, railing back-foot-stomp cutback check-turn.  I got the shot homie!

 

Pure soul.

Want your photo from this day on CD, emailed or as a print?  Let me know!  Email me through the link from my profile, or go to my website and click "email" to contact me for rates.

FIN.

PERMANENT ABILITY // behind the scenes of a band shoot

 

Permanent Ability

Yes, that's a toilet he's standing on--what interesting things photographers ask people to do in the name of art!

The first thrilling, exhausting, and draining band-shoot experience has passed for me.  I helped a collegue and close friend, Huy Truong (Frenetic+Joy photography) work on what may be some of his best work that's been produced.  Permanent Ability--a Sublime-meets-Red Hot Chili Peppers band--was the subject matter.  Truong did the glossy "band shots," while I assisted with lighting and captured the behind the scenes vibe.