Sorry if you missed it...

...you should have woken up earlier.  Kim Magin, about to indulge in tube time, Hermosa Beach, early in the morning of November 29th, 2011.

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SHOT FEATURED IN SURFLINE.COM EDITORIAL

Enjoy--click to see what getting up at 5AM, arriving at the beach at 5:45AM and shooting the whole morning yields.

A Tale of Two Windswell Turns

Two different wave riders, two different beach breaks in the South Bay, two different stances, two different wind directions, and one result: a lot of displaced water.

 Bobby Kithcart, bodyboarder, dropknee smash, Manhattan Beach Pier earlier this month

Sunset at Manhattan Beach Pier later that evening earlier this month

 Unidentified, surfer, standup slash, Redondo Beach this evening

Sunset at Redondo Beach this evening (note the buoy the wind is attempting to tip over)

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The Curse of the Florescent Green Jersey: MSA Classic Brings Freshwater Surfers from Michigan

 Brad Tunis, Great Lakes surfer

 

FRIDAY, SEPT 9, MALIBU CA--

While stroking in from his first--and last--heat in the division he just competed in, the bearded surfer in the green jersey clenched clenched his head.  The realization that the sojourn from The Great Lakes of the midwestern United States wasn't going to have a glorious finish must have stung a little.  His wave-starved heat was stacked with surfers that all looked to know "Malizoo" like the back of their hands.

Earlier, another downtrodden Great Lakes surfer made his way out of the water.  Head slightly bowed, while looking at the saltwater ocean in front of him, he picked his way through the cobblestones and got to shore.

 

The proprietor of Third Coast Surf Shop stores in Michigan, Ryan Gerard, looked a little bummed that his heat--which featured Joel Tudor--hadn't gone as well as expected.  (The superstitious amongst us might think it had something to do with that green jersey.)

When Tudor (pictured above), who was also in Gerard's heat, earns third, one knows that the heat must have been rough for most everyone!

For both surfers, despite the unfortunate losses due to bad conditions, lack of consistent sets, and smart competition from fellow surfers (who attempted to push them too deep and out of position in the lineup), the journey to the promised land of longboarding emoted nothing but pure stoke.

Once back on land, Brad Tunis--the "bearded surfer" cursed with the green singlet--was beaming, once he took off the jersey (see photo above).  Who wouldn't be?  He had just surfed Malibu with only 6 other guys out.

Usually, there's six other guys on one's wave, with 100 others out the back!  Ryan Gerard maintained much the same attitude post-heat.

The Great Lakes surfers are some of the most upbeat surfers I've met in my life.  My friend, Jonas Nakas (see him longboarding in THIS post), had invited me to the contest to meet his friends from the Great Lakes.   Whether the Great Lakes surfers are surfing freshwater lakes, or grabbing some waves during a contest in California, they have a fantastic attitude.  The effervescent joy they derive from riding waves actually caught me a bit off-guard.

It's not "cool" in California to be a visibly happy surfer at some spots.  For some odd reason, people seem to prefer quiet discontent and grumpiness.  Go figure.

The Great Lakes riders, however, were branded with a positive throwback attitude--like something out of a 60's longboard surfing short.

Case in point: I told them all I was mostly a bodyboarder, sometimes a kneeboarder, and rarely a standup surfer, and all of the Great Lakes crew that had made the hull for the contest were actually happy for me.  In Southern California, people draw ridiculous lines based on equipment.  It can be so bad sometimes, that "boardriding bigots" in Southern California who prefer their chosen equipment over most all others can sometimes border on hateful (go surf PV on a bodyboard and try to say, "Hi!" to the locals--you'll instantly see what I mean.).

 Solitude for an unknown, noseriding surfer (above), unidentified girls play tug-of-war (below)

Nevertheless, despite my "lowly" riding preference, these guys and gals were all saying nice things, along the lines of,  "Rad, man, that's cool--awesome."  From surfers who stand up in California, the nicest remarks I usually get is a token, tongue biting, falsely polite response--something along the lines of, "Oh, as long as you're having fun, that's all that counts."  (It's as if people who stand up believe it takes no skill--nor guts--to perform off-the-lip and aerial manuevers on a sponge.)

two unidentified competitors stroll back down the point

 

At the end of the day in Malibu, after meeting all of the visiting Great Lakes guys and gals, I walked away with a new appreciation for the sport of waveriding.

 A pair cuddles (above), and a man plays "superman" with a little girl, while chatting with a woman (below)

Whatever you choose to ride, readers, just make sure of one thing: that you're having fun.  That's how they carry themselves at the Great Lakes, and that's how we should do it here in California.  And why not?  It's not like we Californians have to wait months for chest-high windswell in bitingly-cold water temps, (commonplace at the Lakes' surf spots.)

To see the Third Coast Surf Shop, either visit Michigan and check them out in person, or visit them on the web @ http://www.thirdcoastsurfshop.com/

--FIN--

The Gnar: Thoroughly Shredded (courtesy of Jovanni Cardoso)

The San Pedro Show, brought to you by Channel Street Skatepark:

Jovanni Cardoso, going where apparently only Daewon Song has gone before--skateboarding over the potentially deadly "keyhole" doorway,  backside.  His back, right wheel is perilously hanging over the edge of the wall and in thin air.  Upon review, I believe his truck just missed catching on this incredible make that brought the house down!

 Cool-toned backside smith

/

skater: Jovanni Cardoso

Jovanni Cardoso feels the warmth of the sun while grinding through a backside smith.

Until next time,

--FIN--